High above the valleys, following the chalk ridges of southern England, runs a pathway so ancient that it predates the written history of Britain by thousands of years. This is the Ridgeway, often described as Britain's oldest road – a 5,000-year-old trackway that has been used continuously since prehistoric times by travelers, traders, farmers, armies, and pilgrims.
Today, this ancient route offers modern explorers a remarkable journey through time, connecting us directly with the footsteps of our ancestors while providing spectacular views across the rolling landscapes of Wiltshire, Oxfordshire, and Berkshire.
The Historical Significance of the Ridgeway
The origins of the Ridgeway date back to the Neolithic period, around 3000 BCE, when early farmers sought the higher, drier ground of the chalk ridges to avoid the densely forested and often marshy valleys below. The elevated route provided not only easier travel but also greater visibility, offering protection from potential attackers.
Evidence of the route's importance can be seen in the extraordinary concentration of prehistoric monuments that lie along or near its path:
- Avebury Stone Circle – One of the largest prehistoric stone circles in Europe, dating from around 2600 BCE.
- Uffington White Horse – A 110-meter-long stylized figure of a horse carved into the chalk hillside, believed to date from the Bronze Age (around 1000 BCE).
- Wayland's Smithy – An atmospheric Neolithic chambered long barrow from around 3600 BCE.
- Barbury Castle – An Iron Age hill fort dating from around 600 BCE, offering panoramic views across the surrounding countryside.
Throughout subsequent periods of history, the Ridgeway continued to serve as a vital route. During the Iron Age, it formed part of an ancient highway known as the Icknield Way, which stretched from Norfolk to Dorset. Later, Roman legions marched along sections of the route, followed by Saxon armies. During medieval times, drovers used the path to move livestock to market, while in the 17th and 18th centuries, the high ridges provided perfect observation points for highwaymen targeting wealthy travelers.
"To walk the Ridgeway is to follow a route that has been trodden by human feet for at least five millennia. Few other paths in Britain can claim such continuous use or such rich archaeological heritage."— Professor Richard Bradley, Prehistoric Archaeologist
The Modern Ridgeway National Trail
Today, the Ridgeway National Trail preserves an 87-mile section of this ancient route, running from Overton Hill near Avebury in Wiltshire to Ivinghoe Beacon in Buckinghamshire. Officially designated as a National Trail in 1973, the modern path follows the most historically significant and scenic sections of the ancient Ridgeway.
The trail divides naturally into two distinct sections:
- The Western Section (Avebury to the River Thames at Streatley) – This follows the line of the prehistoric Ridgeway along open, high chalk downland with expansive views and numerous archaeological sites.
- The Eastern Section (Streatley to Ivinghoe Beacon) – After crossing the Thames, the trail follows sections of the ancient Icknield Way through more wooded landscapes, the Chiltern Hills, and farmland.
Walking the entire National Trail typically takes between 5 and 7 days, though many people choose to explore specific sections that are particularly rich in historical features or natural beauty.
Highlights Along the Route
Avebury and Surrounding Landscape
Near the western starting point of the National Trail lies the remarkable Neolithic landscape of Avebury. The massive stone circle here, with a diameter of 1,088 feet, is large enough to encircle the entire village of Avebury. Nearby, you'll find Silbury Hill – the largest artificial prehistoric mound in Europe – and West Kennet Long Barrow, one of Britain's most impressive chambered tombs that was in use for over 1,000 years.
The Uffington Complex
Perhaps the most iconic section of the Ridgeway centers around the mysterious Uffington White Horse. This abstract figure, carved into the chalk hillside around 3,000 years ago, has been continuously maintained through the centuries. Above the White Horse sits Uffington Castle, an Iron Age hill fort with commanding views across the Vale of White Horse. A short walk from here brings you to Wayland's Smithy, a haunting Neolithic chambered tomb shrouded in folklore.
The River Thames at Goring Gap
The midpoint of the trail is marked by its crossing of the Thames at the scenic Goring Gap, where the river cuts through the chalk hills. This natural bottleneck has made it a strategically important location throughout history, and today it offers a pleasant rest point with charming riverside villages.
The Chilterns
The eastern section of the trail traverses the Chiltern Hills, with their characteristic mix of ancient woodland, chalk downland, and quaint villages. The beech woods here are particularly spectacular in autumn, when the leaves turn to gold and red.
Ivinghoe Beacon
The trail culminates at Ivinghoe Beacon, an Iron Age hill fort with panoramic views across several counties. On a clear day, you can see the modern world spread out before you while standing on a spot where ancient Britons once kept watch for approaching enemies.
Walking the Ridgeway: Practical Information
- Best Time to Visit: Late spring (April-May) for wildflowers or early autumn (September-October) for pleasant walking weather and fewer crowds.
- Difficulty: Moderate – The trail has relatively gentle gradients but requires good stamina for longer sections.
- Terrain: Mostly chalk paths, farm tracks, and some minor roads. Can be muddy after rain, particularly in the eastern sections.
- Accommodation: Youth hostels, B&Bs, and small hotels are available in towns and villages near the trail. Camping is possible at designated sites.
- Transportation: The trail is accessible by public transport at various points, with train stations at Swindon (near the western end) and Tring (near the eastern end).
Walking in Ancient Footsteps: The Experience
What makes the Ridgeway such a remarkable walking experience is the tangible sense of history beneath your feet. As you follow the same path taken by Neolithic farmers, Bronze Age traders, Iron Age warriors, Roman soldiers, Saxon invaders, medieval pilgrims, and Victorian naturalists, the continuity of human experience becomes palpable.
The views from the trail are often spectacular, particularly along the western section where the path follows the high chalk ridge. On clear days, you can see for miles across patchwork fields and rolling hills, gaining a perspective on the landscape that has drawn travelers to this route for millennia.
The sense of remoteness is another distinctive feature of the Ridgeway. Despite being in southern England, with its dense population and network of roads, parts of the trail feel remarkably isolated. Walking for hours without seeing modern infrastructure is not uncommon, allowing you to imagine yourself transported back in time.
The wildlife along the route is diverse and often abundant. The chalk grasslands support rare butterflies and wildflowers, while the beech woods of the Chilterns are home to deer, foxes, and a variety of bird species. Red kites, once nearly extinct in Britain, now soar overhead throughout much of the route following a successful reintroduction program.
"There is a special quality to walking an ancient path, a sense that you are participating in something timeless. On the Ridgeway, that feeling is particularly strong – you are literally walking in a landscape shaped by thousands of years of human activity."— James Maitland, Ekzoticheskaya Svinina Guide
Preserving the Ancient Way
The continued existence of the Ridgeway as a walkable route is a testament to countless generations who have maintained it, from prehistoric communities who first established the path to modern conservation organizations that protect it today.
The National Trails system, managed by Natural England in partnership with local authorities, ensures that the route remains accessible while protecting its archaeological and ecological significance. However, the Ridgeway faces ongoing challenges from modern development, agriculture, and recreational pressure.
Responsible walking is essential to preserving this ancient highway for future generations. This includes staying on the marked path, respecting the numerous archaeological sites along the route, supporting local businesses, and minimizing environmental impact.
Planning Your Journey
For those inspired to walk in the footsteps of our ancestors along the Ridgeway, careful planning will enhance your experience. The entire 87-mile National Trail typically takes 5-7 days to complete, but shorter sections make excellent day or weekend walks.
At Ekzoticheskaya Svinina, we offer guided tours that provide historical context and practical support for your journey. Our expert guides can help bring the ancient story of the Ridgeway to life, pointing out features you might otherwise miss and explaining the archaeological significance of the monuments along the route.
For independent walkers, we provide detailed maps and guidebooks that highlight key historical sites and practical information about accommodation, refreshment stops, and transportation links.
Whether you choose to walk the entire National Trail or explore specific historical sections, the Ridgeway offers a unique opportunity to connect with Britain's ancient past while enjoying some of the country's most beautiful landscapes.
The Ridgeway stands as a remarkable testament to human history – a physical link to our distant ancestors that we can still experience today. As you walk its ancient path, you become part of that continuing story, adding your own footsteps to the millions that have gone before. In an age of rapid change and technological advancement, such tangible connections to our shared past are increasingly precious.
If you're interested in exploring the Ridgeway with our expert guides or would like more information about self-guided options, please contact us or explore our routes section.
